What to Plant in November: European Vegetable Garden Guide
What to plant in November across Europe: bare-root trees, broad beans and the last salads to get in now, plus the frost jobs that protect the rest.
November is the month European gardens stop agreeing with each other. In a Mediterranean plot the sowing list is still nearly as long as September's. In an Atlantic or continental garden, the beds are mostly done. The real work moves from the vegetable patch to the tree line instead. This is when bare-root deciduous trees, hedging and roses become available at nurseries and go in while they are dormant. Knowing what to plant in November means knowing which of those two gardens you actually have.
This guide covers what still goes in the ground by climate zone, why bare-root is the month's defining job rather than a footnote, and the frost jobs that decide what survives to spring.
What to Plant in November, Zone by Zone
| Region / climate | Planting window | Key November jobs |
|---|---|---|
| Atlantic (Cfb) | Narrows through the month | Bare-root trees, hedging and roses; broad beans under cloches; last chance for hardy salads under cover |
| Continental (Dfb) | First half, weather permitting | Bare-root planting once the ground is workable; lifting and mulching what is left; garlic only if you missed October |
| Mediterranean (Csa) | The whole month, close to a full range | Garlic, shallot and onion sets; broad beans and peas outdoors; salads and roots under fleece; berry bushes and fruit trees |
If you are not sure where your garden sits, our European climate zones guide explains how to find your zone and what it changes about timing.
What's Still Worth Planting
Most of what goes in during November either tolerates real frost outright or gets planted precisely because the plant is dormant and cannot be shocked by the cold.
| Crop | Sow / plant | Zone notes |
|---|---|---|
| Bare-root fruit trees, bushes and hedging | Bare root | All zones, once dormant; do not plant into frozen or waterlogged ground |
| Broad beans | Direct sow, cloches | Cfb and Csa; Dfb gardeners are usually past the window |
| Winter peas | Direct sow, support | Csa mainly; needs a sunny spot |
| Garlic, shallots, onion sets | Cloves and sets | Prime time in Csa; last call only in mild Cfb spots, see our October planting guide for depth and spacing |
| Winter salads and land cress | Under cloche or fleece | Cfb and Csa; Dfb only in a cold frame or unheated greenhouse |
| Spinach and lamb's lettuce | Direct sow | Csa; first week only in Cfb and Dfb, and only under cover |
| Rhubarb and Jerusalem artichoke | Dormant crowns / tubers | All zones, before the ground freezes hard |
| Tulip bulbs | Dry bulbs | Still going in through November in Cfb and Csa, our tulip planting guide covers the depth and the zone-by-zone window |
Cauliflower, fennel, pumpkin and beetroot are finished for the year everywhere outside the mildest Mediterranean pockets. They are frost-tender and will not establish from here. Our winter vegetables guide covers what to grow instead if you want crops standing through to spring.
Bare-Root Season Is November's Real Job
If October's headline crop is garlic, November's is bare-root planting, and it is worth treating as the main event rather than a line in a longer list. Deciduous trees, hedging plants, roses and fruit bushes go dormant in November. Nurseries dispatch them lifted straight from the field rather than grown in a pot, which makes them cheaper than the container-grown equivalent. Because they go in while dormant, they also settle into the soil over winter. They start growing on their own schedule in spring instead of recovering from transplant shock first. The RHS hedge-planting guide puts the bare-root window at leaf fall through to late winter, and confirms bare-root stock is generally cheaper than the same species pot-grown.
The only real constraint is the ground itself. Do not plant into soil that is frozen solid or waterlogged. Roots cannot make contact with compacted or icy ground, and bare roots dry out fast once exposed to air. If your order arrives and the bed is not ready, heel the plants into a spare trench or a bucket of moist compost for a few days rather than leaving roots exposed.
Plan the hole before the plant arrives
Bare-root stock has a short shelf life once lifted. Dig the planting hole and improve the soil before the delivery arrives, so the roots are out of the air for minutes, not days.
Protect What Won't Survive the Frost
The other half of November is deciding what needs help and what can be left alone. Parsnips actually improve with a touch of frost: the RHS parsnip guide recommends waiting until after the first heavy frost to harvest, because it intensifies the sweetness and flavour. They are better left in the ground and lifted as needed, or lifted in one go and heeled into a shallow trench if the ground is about to lock up hard. Celeriac wants a thick mulch of straw or bracken over the crown rather than lifting. Dahlias, cannas and tuberous begonias are the opposite case. Unlike parsnips, their roots do not tolerate the ground freezing around them. The RHS advice on overwintering tender plants is to lift the tubers once the first hard frost blackens the top growth, then let them dry and store them somewhere cool and frost-free, such as a shed or garage.
Potted plants that are hardy in open ground can still suffer in a container, because the whole root ball is exposed to air on every side. Move anything borderline against a sheltered wall, raise pots onto feet so they are not standing in water, and wrap the pot itself in bubble wrap or fleece rather than the foliage.
Common November Mistakes
- Planting bare-root stock into frozen or sodden ground. Heel it in and wait for a workable spell instead of forcing it in.
- Leaving bare-root roots exposed while you dig the hole. Prepare the site first; minutes in the air are fine, hours are not.
- Autumn-sowing broad beans in a continental garden. In Dfb winters they usually fail outright; wait for February or March instead.
- Lifting parsnips before the first frost. You lose the flavour improvement the cold gives them for no reason.
- Leaving dahlia and canna tubers in the ground after the first hard frost. Frozen tubers rot; lift them the same week the top growth blackens.
Plan Your November Garden With Plantory
November rewards planning more than any other month, because bare-root stock has to go in fast and the frost dates that decide it vary by weeks between an Atlantic garden and a continental one. With Plantory you can map where new trees and hedging go before the delivery arrives, and set a reminder for the first hard frost so dahlias and cannas come up on time. You can also carry this year's bare-root planting straight into next season's layout. Work out what to plant in November once, and the rest of the winter follows on its own.
Related posts
- Planting Garlic in Autumn: Timing, Depth and VarietiesWhen and how to plant garlic in autumn in European gardens: climate-zone timing, clove depth and spacing, choosing seed garlic and winter care.
- What to Plant in October: European Vegetable Garden GuideWhat to plant in October across Europe: the garlic, overwintering onions and broad beans to get in now, plus the jobs that close the season well.
- What to Plant in September: European Vegetable Garden GuideWhat to plant in September across Europe: the hardy salads, overwintering onions, and garlic to sow now, plus the autumn tasks that set up next year's garden.
- What to Plant in August: European Vegetable Garden GuideWhat to plant in August across Europe: the autumn and winter crops to sow now, the garlic and onion harvest, and the tasks that carry your garden into the cooler months.